Two hundred and fifty kilometers north from us along the Pacific Highway is the geographical haven of Port Stephens formed by the mouth of the Myall River. In July 2007 we’d stayed at the little hamlet of Hawk’s Nest and we made a boat trip across the bay and glimpsed the resident pod of dolphins. This time however we hoped for better weather than the wintry cold of a NSW July and had the Tribe of 5 in tow for perhaps a closer encounter with the dolphins.
An easy midday run out of Sydney meant we arrived just after dark around five hours later. You all know how you’d like road trips to go; drive a bit, plan to get so many kms into the journey before stopping and then make the rest of the drive revived and rested. And you know how kids and strung out parents actually deal with it; drive a little way, cave in to the endless “are we there yets”, stop, try to control the release of pent-up energy at the service station, hope they don’t get flattened in the car park, force them to eat the fifty bucks worth of rubbish they so desperately needed, yearn to be at journey’s end, get them safely in and out of the disgusting toilets, fire them back into the car as if they’re being kidnapped and head off up the freeway ever so slightly more wound up than before we’d stopped. Ah, the joys…
Of course it doesn’t always have to be that way but since our trusty people moving eight-seater Tarago has been relegated to bottom division ‘coz it can’t tow the Tribe, we’re forced to use ARNI, Lindsay’s Toyota Aurion, thus giving the littlies free reign as three cherubs sit in a row squashed together just cooking up trouble the minute the wheels start turning. Sometimes it’s only two of them, other times all three, rarely are they sitting quietly for long. It brings back vivid memories of fighting with my brother in the back of the Cortina en route to Pompey for a grandparents visit usually resulting in the lucky one – me – getting to sit in the front seat with Dad. Come to think of it, it was always I who got lucky. Like the time I told my brother to shoot at the glowing light bulb with a water pistol while we were sat in a bathtub of water. It was his name that was uttered first as dear Dad crashed into the darkened bathroom to fish us out from the broken glass and soapsuds!
Seems the mischievous streak that my brother has always had lives on in his nieces and nephew and although we arrived at Hawk’s Nest uneventfully, the corkscrew was already twisted into the first bottle of red. But the frustrations of the journey soon faded away as the kids all played together and our friends and hosts for the weekend arrived with supplies of Chinese take away and additional Aussie plonk.
Saturday came with menacing skies but we refused to be deterred and slipped the boat at the ramp not 500m from the house. After collecting friends from the public wharf, we took a gentle punt down the little stretch of the Myall River in the hope that it wouldn’t be too blowy as we tipped out into Nelson Bay in search of the dolphins.
The sheltered, glass-flat stretch of water to the river mouth meant we could get the boat pretty well flying but a couple of nervous passengers led me to back off a little as the going got bumpier. Once out into the more open water the southeasterly wind met us head-on and the boat carved into the oncoming wave tops with ease. Some loved it but the nervy ones were now plain scared so we settled back down into the water for some reassurance that disaster was miles away, whereupon the windy weather just flipped the tops of the waves over the bow threatening to soak those up front in the open seats.
Squinting of out into the bay, I could see the whale and dolphin-watching vessels but it was too rough for us this time so we turned tail and headed back in. On the way back up the Myall Lindsay took the helm of her toy for the first time. Slow speed under 8 knots technically doesn’t require a licence and it will be good practice for the launch and recovery once she’s familiar with the controls, the steering and the fact that boats don’t have brakes!
We put the less adventurous passengers ashore to play on the leeward side of Winda Woppa beach so that we could go for a play in the estuary with a bit more hooning around but black skies covered us and we decided to cut and run. The winch clicked and clacked the bow onto its trailer roller and locked it down just as the first spits and spots of rain began to hit us, Lottie stayed on board and a salty old seadog cleaning his day’s catch warned me of the bank of wet seaweed laying under my front wheels as I headed for the driver’s seat. ARNI was going nowhere with all that under his feet, so with it all cleared away we dragged the soggy bottom boat up the short ramp to the car park and the rain held off.
After a sumptuous lunch cooked up at home base we took a drive out to Myall Lakes and Bombah Broadwater for the afternoon. The rugged bush hinterland here separates the beach and ocean from the land and has formed interconnecting lakes helped doubtlessly by the meandering Myall River. Forming a road link from the more northern section of Pacific highway to the particular spot is a little chain ferry that spans about 300 metres of water and here we pulled up behind a Saturday afternoon queue of two cars. Now, ever since I was a kid (about 6months ago it seems) I’ve absolutely loved going on car ferries. It must’ve been the early baptism of summer holidays to the Isle of Wight in the UK and Channel crossings en route to Spain but small or large, open or closed I just think the idea of transporting my car or bike over sea or lake on a boat is so, so cool. I can’t really explain it, just think it’s one of transport’s most wonderful things to do.
Our friends in the other car pulled up alongside us and seemed not to be heading over the water, telling us there’s nothing much on the other side except some little eco tourist resort and maybe a bar or coffee shop. Bar? And they weren’t keen on going over? How odd…
Within five minutes we were rolling down the ramp gently enough to avoid scraping ARNI’s chin and creeping up the ferry’s steel boarding plate equally gently so as not to bump his bottom before parking behind the other two cars ready for the voyage across. It takes longer for the attendant to load us, lock the gates, take the money, dock, unlock the gates and off load all four cars that it actually does to cross the water but it was the best five bucks I’ve spent in ages! And as I took my first sip of something cold in a glass I looked back down at the little ferry, reflected on our adventure and realized life’s pretty good.
The fresh air and days’ fun knocked the kids for six that evening so there were no consequences dished out and they settled into bed easily, just a few games of cards and a bottle of red wine or maybe that was a few bottles of red wine and a game of cards, or perhaps a few bottles of cards and a game of red wine, no, no…
Australia is famous for a few things but one top trump where they seem to rack up most points is in the natural world and its wonders. Due to the fact that something like 40000km of it are coastline its beaches really are some of the best in the world.
Of course there’s the famous crowd pullers like Bondi and Surfer’s Paradise, but I prefer beaches where’s there’s more sand visible than people. Bondi’s not my thing, to date I haven’t even been there! So for Sunday morning we drove up the Mungo Brush Road to the sandhills of Mungo Brush beach. We climbed the track from the little car park up to the beach and as it opened out into what felt like another planet this was more my thing. Probably the largest expanse of open sandscape I’ve ever seen in my life compelling me to stand for a few moments to take it all in. It reminded me of a place on the West coast of Ireland with an enormous sandy beach stretching for miles and miles called, rather oddly , Inch. That left an impression on me when I was there about 20 years ago in an old blue and white Combi but this place made Inch look like Millimetre, simply beautiful.
And so we set off across miles and miles of Mungo Brush Beach to find some sandhills. The rain had created a little thin crust on the sand that crumbled underfoot like the pastry on one of Nan’s pies, the going was easy enough and there were no complaints today as we had our own delightful little pioneering moonwalk across a wonderfully unspoilt piece of planet. Soon enough we found a long steep sandhill dry enough and perfectly sheltered from the whipping wind that tingled your ankles with periodic sandblasts. Scarlett utterly hates that, it scares the living daylights out of her, I suppose it would really.
The boogee boards were perfect for a spot of sand surfing and all except the two youngest were unstoppable, Even the grown-up kids got in on the action, although it was as hard hijacking a board as it was trying to stand up on it! When the energy to climb back up became less than the thrill of surfing back down things happily wound up and we trudged back to the cars.
The weather got its little tantrum out of the way in the form of a shower while we had another scrumptious lunch and the thrill seekers among us volunteered for an afternoon on the boat. We took a run up the Mungo Brush Road past the sandhills on to where the lakes opened up and pulled up in the car park next to a near deserted campsite. Believably because of the ropey weekend weather the place was empty, but equally as unbelievable was our good fortune to have the place to ourselves basking in the warm autumn sunshine. The handful of ducks at the ramp politely moved aside as we backed the trailer down and slipped the boat in off the ramp at Bombah Broadwater.
Once afloat we cautiously explored the vast open waters to find a suitable circuit for the tube and kneeboard. A sheltered corner of the lake gave us the best go at it with only one little tinnie out fishing and we wouldn’t bother him. The water itself is a rather off-putting brown colour rather like that of tea before the milk goes in and is largely caused by the fallen leaves of the melaleuca trees that fringe these lakes. Melaleuca trees also include the one we all know as the tea tree, notable for its zingy oil that finds its way into all kinds of smellies and soaps. That aside the one thing I was happy about were the cleansing qualities of all the fresh water on the Tribe’s mechanicals. The brisk wind blew into our faces as we sped round our circuit and the first of the tube victims suited up for an appointment with destiny. Personally I’m not a fan of the inflatable donut rings that we tow, sometimes way too fast, behind the boats but other people think they’re great and who am I to argue, especially when I’ve go the best seat in the boat. Either way, you won’t catch me on one of those things for love nor money.
And it didn’t faze anybody as they all had a blast on the thing, it was actually quite hard to get them all off in the end. Round and round, figures of eight, bumpy and smooth everybody loved it. Even when it came to the borrowed kneeboard with missing leg-strap Craig managed to effortlessly glide up onto the plane (probably the boat driver’s skill) and excel at carving up the wake. The lake revealed its true depths when he fell off and stood up to his chest in the soft mushy lake bed. Then it was the kids turn and they too looked like they’d been doing it for years. We stayed out for ages, as long as we all wanted and towed them home to the ramp one last time, speeding up in the hope of dumping them all for a finale. No such chance! They were all far too expert by now.
The Tribe slid quietly onto the little sand strip at the ramp, hungry kids squawked into eskies and food bags for snacks and drinks and the ducks looked hopeful. We dunked the trailer and with the distinct lack of onlookers (for once), I made a complete cock-up of driving the boat to the trailer blaming all sorts of nonsense such as the wind, the hefty marker posts sticking out of the water, the sun, the birds, just about anything other than simply fooling about! With the boat up on her trailer and the bung out gallons of Bombah Broadwater happily poured down the ramp right back from whence it came. All was quiet except for the sound of laughter and as the sun dropped like a gold dollar coin down the back of the sofa I have to say it was simply one of “those days”.